Adega Viúva Gomes - 2020 - Branco Colares

A compelling testament to the enduring viticultural legacy of the Colares region, a singular enclave near Lisbon where pre-phylloxera viticulture persists. This distinctive white wine is crafted exclusively from ungrafted Malvasia de Colares vines, rooted in the region's unique sandy terroir. The sandy soils, a defining characteristic of Colares, are a natural defense against phylloxera, a root-devastating louse that decimated vineyards across Europe in the late 19th century. This geological peculiarity allowed Viúva Gomes to preserve these ancient, ungrafted rootstocks, a rarity in modern winemaking, contributing to the wine's distinct character and historical significance. The Malvasia de Colares grape, perfectly adapted to the cool maritime climate, thrives in these challenging conditions, yielding grapes of remarkable concentration, vibrant acidity, and a profound expression of place.

Viúva Gomes embraces a philosophy of low-intervention winemaking, a commitment to allowing the terroir and the indigenous grape to speak for themselves. The winemaking process begins with directly pressing the grapes, minimizing skin contact, and preserving the delicate aromatics of the Malvasia de Colares. The resulting must undergo fermentation in stainless steel tanks, a practice that further enhances the wine's freshness and purity, preventing the introduction of extraneous flavors. Following fermentation, the wine is aged in seasoned, used oak barrels for 12 months. This careful aging regime adds a layer of textural complexity and subtle spice without overwhelming the inherent characteristics of the grape or imparting overt oak flavors. The used oak is a gentle vessel for controlled micro-oxidation, refining the wine's structure and adding depth without masking the terroir's signature salinity.

Tasting notes for Viúva Gomes's 2020 Branco Colares reveal a complex and aromatic white wine, a true reflection of its unique origins. The Malvasia de Colares grape contributes a captivating bouquet of white flowers, such as jasmine and honeysuckle, intertwined with vibrant citrus blossom and a pronounced saline minerality, directly reflecting the maritime influence that shapes the Colares terroir. The direct press and stainless steel fermentation preserve the wine's freshness and purity, allowing these delicate aromas to shine. The aging in used oak barrels adds a subtle layer of complexity, imparting hints of white pepper, toasted almonds, and a creamy texture that enhances the wine's mouthfeel. The palate is defined by its vibrant acidity, a hallmark of Colares wines, providing a refreshing and balanced structure that cuts through the richness of the wine. The mineral notes, reminiscent of sea spray and wet stones, are particularly pronounced on the long and persistent finish, a testament to the region's unique sandy soils. The used oak aging, while adding complexity, remains subtle, allowing the inherent characteristics of the Malvasia de Colares grape and the distinctive terroir of Colares to take center stage. This wine is a profound expression of Colares's unique viticultural heritage, a testament to the resilience of ungrafted vines and the thoughtful winemaking practices that highlight the potential of this indigenous grape variety.