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Adega Viúva Gomes - 2021 - Colares Reserva Branco

Sale price€76,00

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A compelling expression of the unique Colares terroir, crafted exclusively from the indigenous Malvasia de Colares grape, grown on ungrafted vines rooted in the region's distinctive sandy soils. The production process adheres to a philosophy of minimal intervention, emphasizing the preservation of the grape's inherent character and the expression of the terroir. The grapes, hand-harvested from the estate's oldest vines, undergo a gentle pressing, followed by fermentation in seasoned oak barrels. Unlike the stainless steel fermentation used for their standard Branco Colares, this fermentation in oak imparts a subtle layer of complexity and texture to the wine. The wine then undergoes extended aging in these same oak barrels, typically exceeding 12 months, allowing for controlled micro-oxidation and the development of further complexity. This extended barrel aging distinguishes the Reserva from the standard bottling, adding depth and nuance to the wine's profile. The use of seasoned oak, rather than new oak, ensures that the wine's varietal character and terroir are not overwhelmed by oak-derived flavors. The wine is bottled unfiltered, preserving its natural sediment and enhancing its textural complexity.

Tasting notes for Adega Viúva Gomes' Colares Reserva Branco reveal a complex and layered white wine with a profound sense of place. The aromatic profile is characterized by a captivating bouquet of ripe citrus fruits, such as Meyer lemon and mandarin, intertwined with notes of white flowers, such as jasmine and honeysuckle, and a distinct saline minerality, reflecting the maritime influence of the Colares region. The oak aging contributes subtle notes of toasted almonds, brioche, and a hint of vanilla, adding a layer of complexity without masking the wine's inherent characteristics. The palate is defined by its vibrant acidity, a hallmark of Colares wines, providing a refreshing and balanced structure. The wine's texture is rich and creamy, a result of the extended barrel aging and lees contact. The mineral notes, reminiscent of sea spray and wet stones, are particularly pronounced on the long and persistent finish, a testament to the region's unique sandy soils. The oak influence, while present, is well-integrated, adding a subtle layer of complexity and enhancing the wine's mouthfeel without masking the inherent characteristics of the Malvasia de Colares grape. This wine is a profound expression of Colares's unique viticultural heritage, a testament to the resilience of ungrafted vines and the meticulous winemaking practices that highlight the potential of this indigenous grape variety, offering a sophisticated and nuanced drinking experience for the discerning wine enthusiast.

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Adega Viúva Gomes

Established in 1808, Adega Viúva Gomes in Colares, Portugal, boasts a rich history intertwined with the unique viticulture of the region. Wine production in Colares stretches back to Roman times, but it was King Afonso III of Portugal in 1230 who encouraged widespread vine cultivation. Viúva Gomes itself emerged in the early 19th century, becoming a pillar of the region's winemaking identity.

'Viúva' in the name means widow and comes from the founder of the business, 'Widow Gomes,' back in 1808. Since then, the company has been passed around, and it finally reached the hands of Jose Baeta in 1988, whose family has been in the food distribution business for decades. He decided to switch companies, which brought him a newfound passion for wine. This came with a blessing: in the year of the purchase, Diogo, who would become the future winemaker of Viúva Gomes, was born as well.

The adega came with a bonus, too; in the cellars, there were thousands of bottles from the best and highest-yielding harvests of the century, such as 1934, 1969, and so on, just waiting to be enjoyed. Although, there was a challenge. No one wanted to buy the wines due to the unpopularity of the area. Jose had to sit out for over a decade before things changed. After a while, old vintages of Colares became popular amongst wine geeks, and Adega Viúva Gomes became famous due to the stock at hand. However, this marked only the beginning of the future of the Adega.

Diogo Baeta, son of Jose, has evolved and taken Viúva Gomes to a new phase, planting their vineyards. These vineyards are in 'chão de areia' (sandy soils') and clay soils. The challenge is planting new vineyards in this area, which is quite risky. New vines must be planted in the clay soil underneath the sand, meaning a large pit must be dug. Digging this pit is a dangerous activity because sand over clay is unstable and may collapse. In the past, workers wore baskets on their heads to fight this issue so when sand collapses, there is some oxygen for people to breathe while getting out. So, as you may see, the effort behind a Colares wine is exceptional.

After planting their vineyards, Diogo Baeta created the 'Pirata' (pirate) range of wines to have more hands-off, natural-style wines in clay soil. The course of Viúva Gomes is giving new life to the area's heritage, which seems to be on the edge of extinction, while respecting ancestral practices and natural viticulture.