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António Madeira - 2021 - A Centenária Tinto

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Considered the Grand Cru of the producer's Dão portfolio, a singular expression born from an exceptionally old vineyard with unparalleled identity.

This wine is a single-parcel triumph, sourced from a tiny, biodynamically farmed vineyard planted around the late 19th century, making the vines over 130 years old—hence its name, A Centenária. This remarkable site, situated in the high granite foothills of the Serra da Estrela, is a complex field blend containing approximately 40 different indigenous varieties, with a predominance of old clones of Jaen, alongside key contributions from Baga, Marufo, and Tinta Pinheira. The winemaking philosophy strictly focuses on minimal intervention and achieving elegance through "infusion," ensuring the utmost expression of the terroir. The hand-harvested grapes are destemmed and fermented naturally with indigenous yeasts in traditional dornas (open vats). Seeking minimal extraction, the fermentation is gentle. Post-fermentation, the wine completes malolactic conversion and undergoes a significant 18 months of aging in large, used 500L Austrian oak barrels, with no new oak employed, and is bottled with only a low dose of sulfur and no fining or filtration.

The resulting 2021 vintage, despite its age and depth, is marked by a pure, unique, and complex aromatic profile, reflecting the cool mountain terroir. The nose features fresh red fruit—notably bright cherry and redcurrant—expertly interwoven with a stony, granite minerality, subtle white cherry undertones, and evocative hints of aromatic herbs, flowers, and pine forest. It offers great depth and an ethereal yet substantial presence on the palate. The mouthfeel is exceptionally fresh and flavorful, defined by silky, fine, and seamless tannins that provide structure without any aggressive grip. The wine is characterized by incredible energy, tension, and a savory complexity that suggests excellent longevity, culminating in a seemingly interminable mineral finish that defines this as a benchmark Dão red.

Learn more about

António Madeira

António Madeira began his winemaking journey with absolutely nothing - no vineyard, no winery, not even a small piece of land to call his own. However, what he did possess was an immense sense of pride that comes with being born in one place but feeling a strong sense of belonging to another. Parisian-born lad with Portuguese roots in the Dão region, António always felt a deep connection to his heritage. In his younger days, he'd visit the family land without giving the wine or grape harvest a second thought. 

António formed a wine tasting club with his colleagues and started to learn more and more about the liquid gold. In 2010, he started making wine in the region, and by 2016, he'd permanently moved back to the Dão to take care of the old vines that local farmers had abandoned. 

António Madeira's vineyards are like a treasure trove, hidden away in the easternmost part of the Dão region. With a continental climate and granite soil, it's no wonder that he believes the Dão has the potential to produce wines that age like fine art. But it's not just a matter of climate and soil, it's also António's passion for winemaking that makes his wines so special. 

He takes pride in his "living museum" of old vines, some of which are over a century old. While other producers are giving up on their vineyards, António is nurturing them with care and attention, ensuring that they continue to produce grapes of the highest quality. And it's not just about the age of the vines, it's also about the variety. António has over 40 different varieties in his vineyards, including the esteemed Baga grape, which is a testament to the rich diversity of the region. 

What sets António's wines apart is their ability to age gracefully. The cool nights in the Dão region allow for slow maturation of the grapes, which results in wines with natural acidity that can be preserved for years to come. And it's not just António who believes in the aging potential of Dão wines. The classics of the region, such as the Centro de Estudos de Nelas from the 1970s, are a testament to the fact that these wines only get better with time. 

So the next time you see the word "DÃO" inscribed in bold letters on a bottle of wine, know that you're about to experience something truly special, crafted with care and passion by António Madeira in the heart of the Dão region.