A homage to the ancient winemaking heritage of Vila Alva in the Alentejo region of Portugal, reviving the methods introduced by the Romans over two millennia ago. The project is centered on the reactivated cellar of the late Daniel António Tabaquinho dos Santos, known locally as Mestre Daniel, thus anchoring the wine firmly in local tradition.
The wine is a field blend, primarily composed of classic Alentejo white grapes: Antão Vaz, Perrum, and Roupeiro. The fruit is sourced from vineyards near Vila Alva, characterized by schist and granite soils that are naturally low in fertility, resulting in naturally low yields that hover around four tons per hectare. Grapes are harvested meticulously by hand into small containers to ensure the integrity of the clusters.
The production is defined by the venerable technique of vinho de talha, or amphora wine. Following total destemming and a light crush, the must is transferred directly into large, terracotta amphorae (talhas). Fermentation is spontaneous, driven exclusively by indigenous yeasts, and proceeds without any temperature control, a deliberate choice that embraces the ambient thermal conditions of the cellar. The wine then undergoes an extended period of skin contact and maceration, remaining with the solids (massas) for a substantial duration, typically around six months for this bottling, which provides texture and structure.
The distinctive feature, alluded to in the name, is the subsequent aging process. After being carefully separated from the primary massas, a selection of the wine is transferred to a different talha where it is aged for an additional year under a protective layer of olive oil (azeite). This traditional method serves to limit oxidation while imparting a unique textural and aromatic complexity. Crucially, the wine is never subjected to filtering or stabilization processes; any clarification that occurs is simply the natural passage of the liquid through the solids present in the amphora.
The resulting wine presents a deep, intense golden-yellow hue, reflective of its prolonged skin contact and aging. The bouquet is remarkably complex and savory, opening with resinous notes, beeswax, and a distinct character of wet earth and dried fruits. The prominent "azeite" element translates not into a greasy quality, but rather an earthy, nutty, and subtle pez (pine-resin/cera) complexity that speaks to its aging method. As the wine breathes, subtle hints of tropical fruit like banana, faint stone fruit, and a whisper of honeycomb emerge. The palate is dry and commanding, showcasing a savory intensity. The texture is a key feature, driven by the fine, resolved tannins from the extended skin contact and balanced by a sharp, integrating acidity. The initial flavors of banana and dried fruits are well articulated, leading into a very long finish that echoes with a mineral, almond-like dryness. This is a profound, textural white wine that rewards patient contemplation.
