Mateus Nicolau de Almeida's Porto Branco Leve Seco presents a striking departure from typical Port expectations, a unique white Port that embodies the winery's unwavering commitment to traditional winemaking and the preservation of indigenous grape varieties. This wine, classified as a "Light Dry White Port," distinguishes itself through its remarkably low alcohol content of 16.5%, a testament to the meticulous blending of four distinct vintages. This blending strategy, combined with specific vinification techniques, results in a refined wine reminiscent of a more traditional, less sweet style of Port, offering a refreshing and intellectually stimulating experience.
The grapes for this singular Port are sourced exclusively from Quinta do Monte Xisto, a property celebrated for its north-facing vineyards. This specific orientation is pivotal, as it minimizes direct sun exposure, promoting a slower, more even ripening process. This approach is crucial in the Douro Valley's challenging climate, fostering the development of balanced acidity and a complex array of aromatic compounds. The north-facing aspect allows for a gentler maturation, which is key to achieving the desired lightness and freshness in the final wine. The vineyard's terroir, characterized by its schist soils and unique microclimate, contributes to the wine's distinctive mineral character and aromatic intensity.
Vinification takes place in a cement vat, a traditional vessel that allows for gentle temperature control and a slow, controlled fermentation. Notably, the grapes undergo an extended maceration period of over three days, a practice that extracts color, flavor, and tannin from the grape skins, contributing to the wine's complexity and texture. After pressing, fermentation is completed with the addition of aguardente, a brandy-like alcohol, a traditional method used to fortify Port wines. The wine then ages in the same cement vat, fostering a harmonious and characterful profile. This extended aging in cement, rather than oak, preserves the wine's freshness and purity, allowing the terroir and the indigenous grape varieties to shine.
The Porto Branco Leve Seco is visually striking, presenting a pale golden hue that hints at its delicate nature. The aromatic profile is vibrant and fresh, showcasing a bouquet of crisp citrus fruits, such as lemon and grapefruit, alongside the refreshing notes of green apple. These primary fruit aromas are complemented by subtle hints of dried fruits, such as apricot and fig, adding a layer of depth and complexity. A delicate hint of exotic spices, perhaps white pepper or cardamom, further enhances the wine's aromatic tapestry.
On the palate, the wine is characterized by its crisp and refreshing acidity, a hallmark of its unique style. This vibrant acidity is carefully balanced by a delicate sweetness, a subtle counterpoint that prevents the wine from becoming overly dry. The texture is smooth and velvety, leading to a long and lingering finish that leaves a refreshing and satisfying impression. This delicate balance of acidity, sweetness, and complexity makes the Porto Branco Leve Seco exceptionally versatile. It can be enjoyed as a refreshing aperitif, stimulating the palate before a meal. It also pairs beautifully with a variety of dishes, from light seafood and salads to fruit-based desserts. Its low alcohol and sugar content make it an ideal choice for those seeking a lighter, more refreshing Port experience.
Through the creation of this Porto Branco Leve Seco, Mateus Nicolau de Almeida pays homage to the traditional styles of white Port, while simultaneously pushing the boundaries of innovation. This wine is a refined and elegant expression of the Douro Valley's viticultural heritage, showcasing the region's ability to produce diverse and compelling wines beyond the traditional ruby and tawny styles. It stands as a testament to the winery's commitment to quality, tradition, and innovation, offering wine enthusiasts a unique and memorable drinking experience.
